mostly about food and cooking, but also the stories about the Bread and the Butterflies!

Bhagar ani danyachi amti

In Maharashtrian, Traditions and Customs, Under 30 min!, Vegetarian on March 10, 2013 at 6:33 pm

bhagar with danyachi amti for Shivratri

Haerath mubarak to my Kashmiri readers, and a very happy Shivratri to the rest of you! There was much feasting at my mom’s last night where we gathered for Mahashivratri puja. Shivratri is the most important festivals for the Kashmiri Pandit community. The festival marks the end of winter in Kashmir. The preparations start weeks in advance and culminate in the final three days ending with doon pooza (walnut puja!) on Phalgun amavasya, which is tomorrow. [Read more about it here and here] For us, today is Salam, the day after Shivratri, the day the youngsters receive Shivratri kharcha (spending money!) from the elders in the family. We got it last night itself from my father!

The rituals are quite elaborate and food and cooking is an integral part. Every family has their traditions and the ceremonies are not complete without the cooking of certain dishes. In the puja last night we had vatuks (vessels for water) that symbolised Lord Shiva and his wife-to-be, Parvati, who were married in the presence of other gods and invitees (represented, in their turn, by smaller vatuks). Only the eldest family member observes a fast while the rest feast. Walnuts are soaked in another vessel, to which are offered tiny bits of fresh food from the meals cooked everyday. Meat and fish are traditional and are part of the puja offerings. In the last 25 years, since their relocation from the Valley, Kashmiri Pandits, on finding themselves amongst Vaishnavites, have started observing vegetarianism during this festival. In deference to tradition, my mother cooked fish the day before Shivratri. Last night’s menu for the Shiv-Parvati wedding: rajma, paneer kaliya, mujj chetin, dum-olu, palak-matar, steamed rice, roti (for the non-Kashmiris!), and modur polav.

Tomorrow will be the vatuk pooza, and the soaked walnuts will finally be ready for distribution amongst family and friends. It really is a great way to finish off the season’s walnuts, which would otherwise spoil soon. Try it – soak walnuts for 3-5 days; change the water everyday. Shell and peel the kernels before eating – they taste just like green walnuts do – sweet and tender!

During the first week of the Shivratri fortnight, married women visit their maika (mother’s house) for a hearty meal. Yes, I and my sister were at my mother’s last Friday too. Since both of us are married to non-Kashmiris, we get to visit on Shivratri-day as well! My mother and her sisters get to visit their brothers. The ritual involves the payment of a token ut-guth (literally, to and fro expenses🙂 ), and, for reasons not clear to me, salt! Salt is also a traditional house-warming gift for us!

Most communities, including Maharashtrians, celebrate Shivratri on the 14th day of the fortnight, which is today. People commonly observe a fast. I think last night’s elaborate pooja reminded TH of his customs and he decided to observe a fast today. As you all know, the only fasting day we observe here these days is Janmashtami. I promised him fasting food. Sabudana khichdi is what is for dinner for everyone. For lunch I cooked bhagar with danyachi amti, just as I remember my MIL making it.

sama ke chaval/ varyache tandool

Bhagar is made with a grain that grows (used to?) wild on uncultivated land. Known as sama ke chawal in North India, it is cooked just like regular rice and is commonly consumed during fasts when many other foods are taboo. It is easy to overcook it; follow my recipe and you will have the fluffiest bhagar. The amti is rich, made as it is from just peanuts, so go easy on the servings!

danyachi amti
Danyachi amti
(Peanut amti)

Serves 3-4

1 C peanuts, roasted and skinned
2+ C water
4-5 hot green chillies, chopped
2-3 pieces amsul (kokum)
1 t salt
1 t sugar

Tempering:
1 t ghee
1 t cumin seeds
2 cloves
a few small pieces dalchini (cassia bark)

roasted peanuts

danyachi amti

Grind the peanuts to a fine powder/paste. Use water to grind if you need. Thin the paste with water and transfer to a thick-bottom pan. To this slurry add the other ingredients and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring every now and then. Take off the heat and prepare the tempering. Heat ghee in a small pan. Add the tempering ingredients. When the cumin stops spluttering, pour the contents of the pan over the amti. Stir to mix, garnish with fresh green coriander and serve with bhagar.

sama je chaval

Bhagar/Varyache tandool
(sama ke chawal)
serves 3-4

1 vati (katori) varyache tandool (about 200gms, or 3/4 C)
2 1/2 vati water
1 t ghee
1/2 t cumin seeds
1 green chilli, chopped
1/2 t salt

sama ke chaval/ bhagar

Heat ghee in a heavy bottomed pan. Add cumin seeds to the hot ghee, followed by the chopped green chilli. Stir for half a minute and add the ‘rice’. Stir the grains for a minute or two before adding the water. Add salt and bring to boil. Give a good stir and turn the heat down to a simmer. Cover and cook for 10 minutes. Let rest for a few minutes before fluffing with a fork. Serve hot with danyachi amti.

the table

The son got to partake what I had originally planned for Sunday lunch: varan-bhat with coconut chutney; he doesn’t care for bhagar and amti. Yet. But I insisted he taste it. So, it is part of his memory. And doesn’t nostalgia always taste good?

  1. Herath Mubarak to you and your family!

    Thanks, Sapna! I hope you and your family had a great Herath too!

  2. Lovely, interesting food- from both sides! I must try the bhagar- with this unusual amti.

    I am sure sama he chaval must be available at the Indian store – check at this time when there is fasting. Enjoy the amti – it is truly different!

  3. Anita, I love this post [ and so many others ! :-)].
    I am glad you touched on the aspect of how the traditions have changed. It puts a small light of sense and perspective on an, otherwise self-righteous deluge of ‘this is the way it is done’!
    :-D!

    I asked my family about the rituals and they said that only non-vegetarian dishes were avoided.No taboo on onion garlic per se. There was no special puja but people stayed awake on Shivartri day reading religious texts. It is another story how people stay awake now! But of course this is Kerala!

    BTW are the vessels, Anchor or Corning? thanks!

    Some Kashmiri families have always observed vegetarianism during this festival though now most everyone does. Onion and garlic was always taboo to KPs but now everyone eats everything!

    Every family seems to have their own rituals as this was always a very personal puja, not involving any pandits. I heard a friend did a 12-hour long puja this year!

    The pans are Corning brown glassware!

  4. Nothing like a feast at one’s parents house. I though Kashmiri Pandits were Vegetarians. I am glad you set me right on that.

    Also this sama ke chawal is something I have searched on the internet for the name of the grain in Tamil (it looks like white cholam to me with which I make dosais) ever since a Gujarati colleague got this for lunch. It was dahi chawal! So glad you talked about it. But I still have to confirm the grain’s name in Tamil.

    [Why does WordPress ask me to login. I don’t have a wordpress account]

    Yes, we eat meat and fish but poultry used to be out, as were onion and garlic! Strange, right?

    Sama chaval does taste a lot like rice, but the mouth feel is very different. Ask someone about the grains permitted during fasts and they may be able to tell you.

    [Ignore WordPress!🙂 ]

  5. Herath Mubarak to you too🙂

    Thanks, Maitri! Hope you had a good holiday too!

  6. I’ve never come across a pure peanut gravy before! How interesting!

    It is interesting! It is a bit of an acquired taste because of the sugar in it…

  7. Bhagar and Danyachi chatni sounds lovely, as does the shivratri feast, but what appealed to me most is your sunday lunch – varan, bhaat, coconut chutney and that huge jar of pickle on your table. Now if there was a platter of fried madras papads there, that would have constituted my idea of THE ideal meal. I think I know what I’m making tomorrow🙂

    That is what appeals to my son too! He had that while we enjoyed the bhagar and amti. I add some cabbage pakoras to that meal when I want to make it extra special though the rest of the family prefers it like this! We all like some papads (especially mirgund!) if it is a pitla-poli meal!

    • Also, do you happen to have a recipe for the perfect puran poli? I cannot seem to find it on your blog, but I remember reading about it here. Or am I mistaken?

      There is a post with a picture and mention of puran poli but I haven’t gotten around to posting the recipe yet. There is a half-written post that I am trying to finish this week – in time for Holi!

  8. I have to try this. That peanut aamti looks so so yummy. Recently I posted a sama ke chawal wala jeera rice and peanut kadhi using sprouted peanuts and someone said they make this bhagar and danyachi aamti… I wanted to know more about it and here it is🙂
    Wow…

    I wasn’t a fan of this amti in the beginning – it takes time for me to appreciate sweetness in the main meal. But, now I love it, just like I love katachi amti! I hope you’ll try it!

  9. Thanks – made both the dishes today. Yummy!

    You are very welcome, Anjali!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: