mostly about food and cooking, but also the stories about the Bread and the Butterflies!

Ladakh Himalayas: The Nubra Valley

In Road Trip, Travel on December 4, 2014 at 8:50 am
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Waking up in an apricot orchard!

Day 8, September 6, 2014
Hundar (10km and back!)

Pangong Tso became a popular destination after it was featured in the hit 2009 movie 3 Idiots.  Its unparalleled beauty is set amid a landscape very harsh and weather unpredictable.  Given the incessant rains and the gloomy forecast, the lake would have to wait…for the next visit.  This trip, we were getting an extra day in Hundar to spend at leisure – visiting the Nubra Sand Dunes and exploring the Diskit Monastery.  Luckily, we were able to transfer our bookings to Nature’s Nest camp here without losing the deposit.

After breakfast we set out for the Monastery.  It was not raining and it was not windy though the clouds were still hanging low.  We spent a couple of hours walking through the monastery that, like so many others, is like a small village on a hill.  We had landed in the middle of special week-long prayers.  A brightly-coloured fresh mandala made with powdered precious stones was on display in the main prayer hall.  It commemorated the special prayers underway and had taken the monks a week to prepare.  After the conclusion of the prayers, it would be consigned to the waters of the river flowing in the valley below.  Only saints could be this detached from something so beautiful created with so much effort.

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The Kitchen at Diskit

Like Alice in Wonderland, I didn’t hesitate to walk through whatever doorways presented themselves.  This one was labelled ‘kitchen.’  Inside a few monks were earnestly at work, washing large vessels, and preparing the lunch.  I was welcome as long as I did not take any pictures or get in their way.  I respected their wishes and just watched as one of the monks went about preparing tingmo, a steamed Tibetan bread.  The giant metal stove in the center of the kitchen was idle today.  On one of the smaller stoves on the side bubbled some dal, and a large karahi contained a dish of bias-cut stir-fried beans.  The large number of guests for the special occasion meant the monk-cooks had no time to indulge curious tourists.  Quietly, I left. The rest of the group went to check the new Golden Buddha statue just across from the monastery as we drove down and into the village streets of Hundar.  We spotted a picturesque ruin, supposedly owned by the monastery.  There is so much history around us that we  become almost insensitive to it.

We drove through what appeared to have been the main street once, and then out to the new market.  Fresh vegetables were being hawked; just what we needed for a proper cookout that was finally going to happen today.  I bought fresh haak, potatoes, cauliflower, and carrots.

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Market, Hundar

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Selling vegetables, Hundar Market

We found a spot by the stream and cooked a good mince curry and aloo-gobhi with rice.  Some fun was had while trying to fish-out the frisbee.  In the end, we all managed to stay dry.

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Lined up, at the Nubra Sand Dunes

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Nubra Sand Dunes

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Nubra Sand Dunes

By late-afternoon we were back to the area where all the camping resorts are, but tonight we were staying at the Organic Retreat.  As we transferred our belongings from the other camp, tea was set out for us high up on the machan.  It was fabulous to drink tea and enjoy the views through beautiful Aspen tree-trunks at that elevated level.  We hung around in the expansive garden full of all kinds of fruit trees – apples and apricots.  There were a few large walnut trees too.  Some decided to play a game of badminton as I dozed off in one of the many hammocks hung all around.

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Organic Retreat, Hundar

Hundar Camp 02

Organic Retreat, Hundar

Hundar Camp 01


I had my haak from the morning purchase and sought out the camp manager. He was okay with me using the kitchen before the cooks got working full steam. The cook looked at my greens and said that is what was on the menu for dinner! I was only too happy to hand over the haak in very capable hands and go off for more tea. Later there was a party of sorts in Ravi’s tent with more single malt and rum-and-coke for lesser mortals like me. The party then moved to where a bonfire had been lit. There was music, more drinking, and an impromptu laser-light show (whose laser-pointer was it?). Those beams can really create magic when reflected off the smoke of a fire! I don’t recall the spread at dinner, but I do remember that it was big and very good with a variety of vegetables, all grown on the retreat-land. That is how I like my meals, lots and lots of vegetables! It had been a fun day, one with little driving. Part I Part II Part III Part IV

  1. Wonderful read…

    Thanks for reading, Nima. A Happy New Year to you!

  2. Hi Anita,
    Love your blog. I have been visiting for years but never commented. My apologies! I read about your travel thru the Himalayas in one sitting and enjoyed it immensely. I can relate to your food experiences since we were in Nepal about three years ago and got to eat all sorts of foods that were definitely not local at the heights we trekked to! Your pictures brought back memories of those mighty mountain peaks, and the pure air. We were actually in Langtang which was tragically obliterated in the recent earthquake.

    I recall reading about your travel to the valley of flowers and have been longing to make that trek sometime! Let’s see when that happens.

    Thank you for all your interesting posts about travel and food. You have a large number of admirers all over the world although they do not always reveal themselves!


    I am so glad you took the time to write to let me know that there are readers out there! 🙂 Not all the time, but it sure is nice to hear from readers such as you every now and then.

    This was a wonderful road trip so different from the VOF trek; both are highly recommended. Nepal has been such a sad event – I hope we can learn some important lessons and make our cities safer.

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