mostly about food and cooking, but also the stories about the Bread and the Butterflies!

My Continuing Discovery of Indian Cuisines

In Eating Out, Maharashtrian, Masalas (Spice Blends), on the side, Tea Party, Traditions and Customs, Travel, Under 30 min!, Vegetables on October 19, 2007 at 2:46 pm

I mentioned earlier the likelihood of my having been a South Indian in previous life. I believe there are people who are offended by this title – South Indian. I know not why. I do understand though, the umbrage at everyone from Southern India being (once) called ‘Madrasi’ by self-centered North Indians. May I add that for my grandma’s generation all non-Kashmiris were Punjabi – likely the only other state they had heard of from their insular position. “So, you married a Punjabi,” she would say.

Southern India is not a homogeneous region; neither is Northern India nor, for that matter, the Eastern or the Western parts of our country. And, just as the cuisine and customs of the Northern plains have a lot in common, the people of Southern Peninsular India also share a long cultural heritage.

While I have established (some might say – followed my tummy to) the general region of my previous birth as Dravidian India, I have not yet been able to point to the exact spot. In my early teens I already knew that Andhra and Tamil food gave me as much comfort as did my mum’s cooking. I relished the everyday-kind dal-based vegetable preparations (which I may not know by their names) served with thick short grain rice; idli smeared with fiery milagai podi was as much ambrosia as was tayir saadam. I discovered Kerala cuisine a little later – in my twenties – though it was confined to the odd fish curry, thorans and pachadis, and the exotic (to me) appams with either avial or ishtu.

flower seller
If you are in southern India be sure to wear some flowers in your hair…strung flowers sold by arm-lengths!

While I have traveled extensively in Karnataka, its cuisine has been my least explored from within the Southern states. Karnataka Sangham (Moti Bagh, New Delhi) was a favourite haunt since we lived on an institutional campus nearby. But other than their Bisi Bele Huli Anna, which they used to serve on Saturdays, there was little on the menu that set it apart from the food of other Southern states. [For those of you experiencing a little nostalgia here, let me inform you that KS is alive and kicking, has reinvented itself in the new granite-clad building on the same site, but to my deep disappointment, does not serve BBHA on Saturdays anymore.]

Armed with my friend Subashree’s e-mail regarding the food scene in Bangalore, I met my sister and her friend at the airport. “So, where’s lunch?” I said as I hugged them. Or words to similar effect. :D

tomato bath

But, first I wanted to meet up with family. We arrived at TH’s cousin’s house to find him and his wife enjoying a repast of Tomato Bhaath. I was quick to accept their invitation (that soggy ‘gourmet’ sandwich, costing all of Rs60, that I bought on the Spice Jet flight was not worth the paper it was wrapped in). This turned out to be a delicious, tomatoey version of good-old Bisi Bele Huli Anna, served with koshimbir (salad) and fried sabudana papad – a promising start to what was to be a full-blown gastronomic visit.

Hallimane, near Malleshwaram, was the choice for lunch and we headed out to get a taste of authentic Karnataka cuisine. After a half hour wait we were ushered to the first floor space at 3:00pm where the lunch thali is served on gleaming black granite tables.

The first course was a spicy soup and I thought, “Authentic?” Yes, it is traditional to serve saaru at the start of a Kannadiga meal. The banana leaf lined thali had two kinds of subzi – one of eggplant, and the other of cashews, a daal preparation, fried papad, and a few pieces of sliced cucumber and onion, served with a naan-like roti, or as in my case, a parotta!

Hallimane

The liberal use of cardamom, cinnamon, and cloves (the three main spices in Bisi bele huli anna as well) gives the cuisine of Karnataka its unique spicy richness different from other cuisines of the South. Though coconut is an important ingredient, it is not used as much in these parts of Karnataka as it is in Kerala cuisine.

I declined the vegetable pulao in favour of the next course of rasam-bhaath. Cooling curd-rice, with mango pickle followed, to douse the rasam induced fires. Kannadiga dahi-bhaath is prepared somewhat differently from the Tamil tayir sadam. A tempering of mustard, whole dried red chillies, and curry leaves is added to cooked rice, which is then mixed with milk. A little yoghurt is added as starter and this mix is allowed to sit at room temperature for a few hours. It thus, had little of the tang of the familiar curd-rice.

For dessert there was dumroot halwa made with ash gourd grated so fine that I was certain it was vermicelli. One could pick a small banana or fix a paan to round off the meal. I opted for paan but, dabbed a spot more of the slaked lime than needed. The reaction was instantaneous and the inside of my left cheek was not happy. Needless to add, I was glad this was post-rasam. All this eat-as-much-as-you-can food for Rs.69.00 per person? I was in heaven, not near Delhi at all. (Make a virtual visit to Hallimane)

idli at swathi restaurant

You would think there could be no dinner after a lunch like that…and you would be so wrong. For supper we had idli at Swathi, a restaurant at the Bangalore bus-adda, while waiting for the over-night KTDC bus to Belgaum. The katori- shaped idlis were served with a chickpea gravy and coconut chutney. Not used to having chhole with our idli, we left the curry well alone and enjoyed the fluffy idlies with chutney as usual.

The Volvo-bus overnight services are very popular in this region. They are comfortable as long as you are not short and the neck-rest-bump in the seat does not come to where your head wants to rest. They do offer a blanket and bottled drinking water in air-conditioned comfort….and early in the morning we were in beautiful Belgaum.

A cup of tea was sorely needed and promptly served. Breakfast was medu vadas with a sambar that turned out to be less fiery than it looked; it was the famous Byadgi mirch of Karnataka [add to shopping cart :D ] imparting that bright orange colour. It was steely willpower that made me stop after just two vadas – two divine deep-fried doughnut-shapes, golden crisp outside, soft inside – perfect to dunk in the sambar. Sorry, no pics – I was barely in the door, people!

Belgaum lies on the Karnataka-Maharashtra border. The cuisine of North Karnataka is similar to that of South Maharashtra. In fact, much of Belgaum is populated with Marathi speaking people. Belgaum is also very close to Goa, and Kannadiga people share their love of sea food with their Goan neighbours. The fish market was full of many kinds of fish – fish that a Delhi resident had never set eyes upon. You want fresh? The fish market receives the bounties twice a day – early mornings, and late afternoons. Sea fish are prized over those reared in fish farms.

Fish Fry

Padma picked three kinds – tiny silver fish, to be marinated with red chillies, salt, and lime juice, dusted with rice flour and fried whole; surmai, to be made into a curry reminiscent of the Goan fish curry; and pamplet (pomfret/butterfish), to be marinated again in red chillies, salt, and tamarind juice, coated with a mix of rice flour and semolina, and shallow fried.

veggie market Belgaum

I was only too happy to accompany Padma on her vegetable market trip where I saw baskets filled with fresh produce – I spotted the famed heirloom gavar (cluster beans), bundles of ridged gourd, white bitter gourds piled high, small streaked brinjals (eggplant) and, ambadi, a sour green, amongst many. Heirloom varieties are much prized and sell for one and half times more than the bigger-but-not-better hybrid varieties. There were cucumbers in too many shapes and sizes.

Padma traced Maandge, a Karnataka delicacy, through the streets of old Belgaum. There are just a few skilled families today who still make this traditional Karanataka phyllo-dough-like flaky sweet. Maandge is crushed and eaten with warm milk.

mandige

The dough is filled with a mix of powdered sugar, sesame, and ghee, rolled very thin, carefully transferred to be cooked over spherical pots that resemble large inverted karahis, and deftly folded into neat bundles as it cooks. The cooks work in the early hours of the morning. By the time we reached, the day’s job was all done, and the individually sealed maandge were neatly stacked in baskets. I was sorry to have missed the action.

The same family also had Udipi sambar and rasam powders on offer. I got myself some sambar powder which I am told is going to make a sambar very different from what I am used to – maybe a little like this Udipi sambar?

spice group 02

Padma’s cook, Lakshmi, transformed all the vegetables we bought into delicious North Karnataka meals for us – each one more delectable than the previous. My interest in her recipes and cooking methods might have made her even keener. The akki roti she turned out were exceptionally good. This is one recipe I am not going to attempt in a hurry – it is time consuming and requires skilled hands that have patience and experience. For one meal there was akki roti, for another jwaarichi bhakri, and bajri bhakri for a third – and all of them were so soft and thin that I had to change my notion of bhakri as a coarse dry thick roti!

The ambadi greens we bought were another first taste for me. Lakshmi boiled the greens with some rice and peanuts. The boiling liquid was then discarded (to reduce the sourness), the greens mashed, and cooked with a simple masala of ground green chillies, cumin and garlic fried in a little oil, and cooked (covered) for a couple of minutes. Served with jowar bhakri these were the highpoint at one lunch.

kale vatane 02

At another lunch, I discovered the nutty taste of kale vatane [add to cart]. I immediately remembered Manisha’s gushings and proceeded to gush myself. These were soaked, cooked, and then stir fried with some chopped onion, and a lot of those aforementioned red chillies, served with a side of stir-fried gavar (cluster beans).

You would think that that would be enough discovery for a two-and-a-half day stay in Belgaum, but there is more. I finally stumbled upon the spice that I had been asking every relative visiting from Bombay-Poona to bring for me. Nobody had the foggiest idea what I was talking about. This, a spice supposedly from the Konkan coast – one would be forgiven to think Konkan Brahmins would surely have cooked with it?

tirphal

As I was writing down the recipe for surmai fish curry, Lakshmi mentioned, “…two pieces of tirphal…” I looked at her with much joy – I had found my spice at last! [Add to cart :D ] Tirphal or teppal is an integral spice in Karnataka fish curry, and finds its way into some other preparations as well (thanks for all the information, TLO, and the recipe references – what would I do without you?). Apparently it is blasphemy to grind it into a masala paste; it should be squeezed in just a little water and added (with the water) to the curry. The fish curry was served with akki roti but I think it was even better with rice.

In between meals we visited Padma’s friends and their farms. On one such visit, one friend was informed of the birth of a calf, and asked if she would like to take some of the colostrum-rich first milk from the cow. She declined and I was heartbroken. It is not everyday, rather never, that I can get kharvas in Delhi. As we were leaving the farm, somehow the conversation veered back towards the cow and her calf…

Before dinner was over, the daughter-in-law of Padma’s friend had brought for us a bowl of the steamed pudding. To prepare kharvas, the colostrum is mixed with plain milk, sweetened with jaggery (or sugar) and steamed, where upon it sets into a custard not unlike caramel custard. It is sprinkled with nutmeg or cardamom, or even black pepper and makes a refreshing dessert. Next morning she brought us another bowl, this time sweetened with sugar.

Many Meals
fried pomfret, fish curry, and akki roti; kadhi, kale vatane, gavar, with bajra bhakri; saru, ambadi bhaji, besan vadi with jwaarichi bhakri

LakshmiIt is amazing that I packed in so much food in just two and a half days in Belgaum. The credit for this goes entirely to Padma and her cook, Lakshmi. If they were trying to sell Belgaum to me then I am sold! The fresh fish and vegetables alone are worth moving for. Watch out, Belgaum.

Some related recipes for you to explore while I get my act together:
Ashwini’s song using the famed Byadgi chillies makes my heart sing.
Manisha’s chitkyachi ani kaalya vatanyachi bhaji (cluster beans with dried black peas)
Lakshmi’s Akki Roti
Ashwini’s Khatkhate
(uses tirphal)
Shilpa’s Tepla Ambat
(Fish Curry with Teppal)

Check these links for foodie destinations in Bangalore:
Vivek’s Top 10 restaurants when in Bangalore.
Kamla tells us about Subamma and his peanuts (and more)…

Tags: Bangalore, Belgaum, bisi bele huli anna, fish+curry, fish fry, Hallimane, kale+vatane, Karnataka cuisine

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  1. This gastronomical journey is too much for me to digest. I am kinda jealous. So I , ahem, kinda moving on…

    Did I bore ya? Moving on…to…Belgaum? :lol:

  2. ok! Am back.. Treat us with some recipes of your special finds :D

    Hopefully I can get to some soon…but there are some already there, the easy fish fry, ambadi… and them links too! ;)

  3. Anita…thats one journey you made!..nice to read such a description post..You came all the way south and didn’t visit us???….bad

    I plan to correct that the next time. So, I can come visit you?

  4. the doodhi halwa must have been dumroot- in karnataka we make it with ash gourd or winter melon(not bottlegourd)- by itself (minus falvourings or colourings) the halwa is translucent with a light green tinge.

    halli mane is one of the best joints to visit in bangalore – food doesnt get as authentic or affordable – this is one eat out devoid of any economic or class barriers – i love tha fact that i can relish the akki rotti along with someone who’s taking a lunch break from his painting assignment

    did you have the belgaum kunda?

    Thanks, Lakshmi. That’s what it must have been – doodhi cooks to mush in no time. Have made the correction.

    Their mysore pak was very good too – rich, and good. Kunda when I visit next! :D

  5. Lovely write-up. I was savouring the food along side you in your travels.

    Thanks. Glad to have you along…

  6. What a beautiful write-up. The mention of kharvas brought back many memories. Our family cook kept a few buffaloes for milk, and these animals were truly part of her family. When a new calf was born, she would share some of the “chikache doodh” (colostrum) with us. I would worry that the baby calf was being deprived of it. My parents explained that the mommy makes more than enough for the calf and for us to have some (she is a dairy animal, after all). The tradition was: we accepted the colostrum and sent back a gift for the new mommy buffalo, something nice to eat (I remember a bag of plump wheat grains being sent back…and may be there were other things). It was a rather sweet tradition, I thought.

    My sister too was repulsed by the thought…I reminded her that with that logic, the milk we drink is also meant for the calf! Still she could barely bring herself to taste it. I hadn’t heard of it till I acquired my Maharashtrian family.
    We take care of them – they take care of us.

  7. Beautifully written post.
    I have been so many times to B’lore and never had the opourtunity to enjoy the cuisine like you. Maybe because i sticked to the food i always eat there.
    Next visit i am goinh to try a variety like you did.

    Go out and try everything…once at least!

  8. What a lovely post…food blogging has nnade me familiar with so many of those wonderful ‘South Indian’recipes…my previously ignorant person thought they had only dosas, idlis and sambhars( not that I would mind though, as I adore them)

    I discovered some thru my schoolmates’ tiffins! The curd-rice made a convert out of me.

  9. oooops I meant ‘made’…was probably too carried away with your post :)

  10. Wow! Absolutely inspiring read Anita! Where to begin with remarks? The black marble tables, those beautiful chiles, the teppal/tirphal…glad you found some; interesting how it numbs the tip of one’s tongue eh? ;-)

    What the Hel, it’s chiLLies! :roll: I have to try the recipes Mispa led me to…

  11. Anita, totally delightful post. And so much info. Feel like I learned a lot.

    Thanks, Giniann. I went overboard with the links!

  12. lovely post about a lovely place and a lovely set of people who really eat and live well. i have a few friends from that area, and the curry is always a beautiful orange colour without burning your tongue.

    I am totally in love with these chillies – I got myself the powdered kind, as well as a bag of whole dried ones which have found their way into everything since – milagai podi, bisi bele huli anna masala, (Indira’s) peanut chutney, and (your) kootu podi too!

  13. Anita, great post and very nice links, too! ;-)

    I forgot all about kunda until Lakshmi mentioned it. You can’t go to Belgaum and not have kunda! Tell me you did but you forgot to write about it.

    About maandge: they add the stuffing to the dough before they roll it out? How do they roll it out so think then? Chavde, a relative of mandge, is rolled out first, fried and then quickly stuffed. It also has roots in Belgaum-North Kanara side.

    Did you have kalya-vatanyachi amti? Now that is something I need to make soon!

    And you’d better get cracking and cook with all this loot you brought back home. Enough slacking, you know!

    Link-shink – yeah, yeah.

    I didn’t see maandge being made…so may have misunderstood what was implied…will clear it with Padma. But it is not fried at all from what I understand.

    And look who’s talking?! The pot calling the kettle black! How about you share the recipe for kalya-vatanyachi amti and I (re)visit it? :lol:

  14. Waahhhhhhhh! No No No….Anita you just ran a dagger through my heart and then twisted it for good measure. This post is what my food memories are made of.
    Though it makes me nostalgic I am so glad I could experience it again vicariously through your post.
    Thanks so so much for that.

    All with good intentions, I assure you. :D
    You have a great heritage – thanks for sharing it with us.

  15. I felt like I was walking on the streets of Bangalore, sitting in HalliMane and eating a lunch, then roaming with my aunt in Belgaum…Ohh how I miss that all… We had to cancel our India trip which was supposed to be in December. Now what will I do to this home sickeness that came back at me after reading this???
    I feel no one could have written this post so well. One of the best(and nostalgic) posts I have read in recent times Anita.
    Are you thinking of visiting Karwar, and other places near that sometime? Atleast I can read about them and be happy :D.

    You are welcome,Shilpa. The least I can do when you entice us so with your recipes!

    Now, who did you say lives in Karwar? Maybe I can visit your relatives there who can serve me your favourites? …just so you can be happy. :lol:

  16. Such a well written post….so rich in content and details. I must’ve read it a half dozen times already.
    With posts like this who needs recipes?

    You are a patient reader with a great attention span then! I was afraid this was so long that I would be all alone at the bottom paragraph…Thanks for reading, TC.

  17. Anita, the milk pudding – it’s a great delicacy in Andhra too, and there’s even a savoury version – it’s called uppu junnu (uppu for salt and junnu being the pudding).
    A friend of mine who hails from Hubli (near Belgaum) once served me a most unusual payasam – wheat flour rolled to resemble cucumber seeds, soaked in sweetened milk, have never come across it again, anywhere. Did you have that, by any chance?

    I’ll pester Lakshmi next time…about the unusual payasam.

    Isn’t it amazing to realize that we cannot even know all there is to the cuisine of one sub-region leave alone the whole state! And I had one reader complain (in the comments) that I write mainly about North Indian cuisine!

    It is not easy to know about regional cuisines when we are separated by language and a lack of published material. The blogs are making a huge difference! There are so many foods and spices that are hardly known outside a community!

  18. I am now jealous :) what a beautiful travelogue (and a food one!). I’ll remember to visit Halli manne whenever I land in Bangalore next. great job, Anita… we look forward to much more of your experiences.

    Thanks for reading, Latha. I should travel more often… :D

  19. I repeat, i am jealous that you had lunch at Hallimane :-D that was one place where i could hog decent ragi mudde! and you topped it all with dumroot halva! and you got teppal and kale vatane!! Thats some bounty, dear :).

    Lovely, just lovely.

    oh, and the colustrum pudding is common in Punjab too-we call it bowhli :) . I used to have the same inhibitions eating it :) . but once i tasted it, it was delish!

    i can go on and on about this post…..

    i am totally speechless and transported in a different world right now. No words are gonna’ do justice!!

    i miss Bangalore :(

    Is there any regional food of India that you don’t know about?! You amaze me with your knowledge!
    It is only natural that Punjabis should make this pudding too – there are a lot of cows and buffaloes behind all the makhan and ghee in Punjab!

  20. Well..Kumta is very near to Karwar Anita. I can definitely arrange you a feast there, with all my favorites so that I can drool over the pictures..hehe. If you like to go to small villages that is :). My parents are in Kumta :D. My many friends are there in Karwar.

    I am going to take you up on this, Shilpa! Small villages can be quaint (there’s running water, right? :D ) with new things to discover.

  21. Lovely post Anita! MAking me so nostalgic. Did u try the akki and ragi roti at Hallimane?
    All the food and the thali’s look so good. I miss the maandge – its been ages since i ate some…

    Only that one meal at Hallimane…the crunchy crispy maandge is quite an exceptional pastry! I’ll think of you as I savour it. :D

  22. Aaah!!! Waht a journey!!! Oh how i miss Mandagi!!!! we have Mandagi as a sweet on the pooja performed one night before a wedding.
    Belgaum has the BEST mandage!!!
    Bhakri- Ambadi! yum!!! BBB… bliss!!!
    Thanx!!

    It does! As also the softest of bhakri and the best of the heirlooms too! [as I plan a dinner of BBB]

  23. Anita. you better do okie!..Anjana was asking when will anita akka going to come home! I might well consider correctly her that its aunty ..:)

    It’s a promise! [Sigh] Must you tell Anjana… :lol: Yes, ‘aunty’ it must be…but a non-English word might sound better, such as, say ‘maasi/maushi’?

  24. nice to know all.being a south indian i am familiar with all these.but nice to see parota pic and i still feel the taste.

    You are a lucky girl, Ramya!

  25. There it is… the fish fry… Those fish pieces are so perfectly cut… great pics and write up Anita, but I can’t stop staring at the fish :)

    Yes, foodieGal! And such a simple fish fry too…I was scared when I saw how ‘red’ the marinade was, but the heat all got ‘fried off’.

  26. This is such a fabulous travelogue! And a gastronomic adventure :) Bisibela is probably the karnataka food I’m most familiar with. Now, you’ve gotten me curious about everything else, can’t wait to try out some new recipes!

    It’s amazing how much there is to discover in this land of ours – we can only try one recipe at a time!

  27. Really mouth-watering and evocative post. You have done an outstanding job of describing the wide-ranging cuisine of Karnataka.

    I have a couple of YouTube videos on my channel about Malleswarama’s hosa market and Halli Mane. You can relive your Bangalore experience.

    Bon Appetit!

    kamla

    Couldn’t find the Hallimane clip but the video about the Subamma stores is interesting too. There are many things that manage to survive in the narrow lanes of old cities.

  28. Yes…indeed you must try them and share of course! [raises a glass] I toast this outstanding post of yours; indeed, I am feeling nostalgia already! ;-)

    All this vicarious living…the nostalgia is from your previous life!

    From the looks of it, many of us have lingering memories from past life, but then food memories are strong!

  29. that tomato bhat looks so yummy!! i love all kinds of rice…tamarind rice, yougurt rice, just rice! we kashmiris definitely have that in common with all south indians.

    The love of rice may have something to do with it! I can live on South Indian food for weeks, but two days without rice and I get all sad and start complaining about how we don’t eat Kashmiri food often enough – basically it is the rice I am craving!

  30. Anita, this is where you went missing all this while, great post and makes me wonder for the umpteenth time what I am doing this far away from the equator.
    You did have a great time exploring the “South Indian” cuisine. I have never had them idlis shaped like that. Well let me go make plans for next visit to India :)

    Are you convinced then that it is time to pack? Let’s do some exploring of native shores together…
    I have been told, after this post, I am annointed an honourary South Indian :D (by none other than a true-blooded Madrasi!) I am honoured.

  31. Your post makes me miss India even more!
    :D …’tis the season…the festivities of Eid and the approaching Divali making you homesick?

  32. Oh mysore pak must have been super yummy – its my favourite sweet :)

    Kunda is the yummiest sticky peda like milk sweet one can ever have – i have been hunting for the recipe for sometime now. And Mandige is traditionally baked over an overturned earthern pot – like you have described – though this may perhaps not be feasible in a modern home.

    Ash gourd gratings are very fine. Traditionally they throw the water content of the ash gourd before making the halwa – that makes the halwa dry and not mushy. I like to retain the juice while cooking :)

    It was, it was…so rich too.

    There was dessert at every meal – including breakfast! Kunda next time, definitely.

  33. Madteaparty,
    Like you, I too trace that hint of Dravidianism, especially with all things foodie related.
    Loved the article and makes my mouth water especially stuck in Portsmouth UK and having faced a vegetarian Thali just yesterday, which can only be described somewhere between gross and diabolical.

    Great pictures too!

    A warm welcome to you here, my fellow past-life-Dravidian. Sorry about your thali…it is hard to have an ‘average’ meal down South, I think…But, whilst in the North, I make my own ‘South Indian’ thali!

  34. What an amazing trip. I would love to do something like that.

    As amazing as your stories are …

  35. wooooow …I absolutely loved this article… I know so too that I was a malayalee in my previous life… when i first went to kerala…i felt like Ive been here before and then the food was absolute nostalgia… loved the dishes you showed here… ever since i saw akki roti, ive been wanting to try it… i had never heard of colostrum milk pudding…gosh…

    Ah, Rachna – you nailed your previous-life-State – I’m a bit foggy!

    Ask at your friendly dairy – they might share some with you…it’s really quite simple to make.

  36. Anita that was one racy post. Really looks like you had pondered a lot on what to eat when you are in the south. That past birth thing is with me too. I love it here in Blr but my longing for my marathi roots unexpectedly have become stronger here one reason is the blog. Loved it.

    Not planned at all – just let it come as it did. Padma was a very generous host (thank you again, Padma).

    Another believer in life-after… :D

  37. I have the colostrum pudding on my blog :-) This made such a nice read :-)

    Obviously you didn’t check that link – it links to your recipe! As does tayir saadam! :D

  38. I think I was focusing on your article the first time around :-)

  39. Halli mane is a good food joint! You should have the akki and ragi rottis there. I also learnt about the antu unde from the chefs there!:)) The thali you had is not pure karnataka style if they served naan or parotas with it! They also have a thali with jolada rotti. If you happen to be in Bangalore again do visit the Kamat hotel opposite Minerva theatre in JC Road. They serve hot jolada rotti with butter. Oh there is so much choice now in Bangalore. The hoteliers have understood that people love these old authentic dishes. Next when you visit belgaum ask for the famous sweet kunda and dryfruit ladoo made with jaggery.

    I am making notes! :D and looking forward to the next time I may visit B’lore.

  40. And yes it is true that for north Indiansll south is madras. I am very proud that I am a tamilian who never stayed in TamilNadu!:)) I liked all the places I lived in India!:))

    We are making an effort to be better informed…and blogs like yours help!

  41. What a lovely post! I am awed!!! And I can bet tat in your precious birth you had Dravidian roots! Pucca! I am yet to make my hand firm at South Indian cuisine :) Sambhar, Rasam, Idli and Dosas rock!

    Thanks, Reeta. Try making avial…an easy-to-make dish but with loads of flavour.

  42. uff i meant previous birth…

    It’s precious too…isn’t it said that you are born as a human form only after going thru 8,400,000 other births in the six realms!

  43. Oh, dear Anita, you are always so generous with us in your writing and your images. Thank you!
    I’ve always been convinced that my strong attachment to Indian food and cooking is a sign of my past…even such simple, ordinary things as the sorting and washing of dals or rice can sometimes make me feel as if I’m homesick.
    But in a happy way—if that makes any sense :)

    Well…I read recently… there are two kinds of people in the world: those who can go to India, and those who cannot! So, which one is you? :lol: We’ll show you stuff (what else to do with the dal and rice) you may have forgotten from that life!

  44. Anita – last time I was in Belgaum I was 5. This just makes me get myself down there!!

    It’s still great down there!

  45. Anita-
    Saw one of your pictures used here-http://indianvegrecipe.blogspot.com/2007/10/dum-aloo.html…maybe u already know about it?

    There are more :( , but I didn’t spot this one because that is not dum aloo by any stretch of the imagination!…I have left comments…Thanks for pointing out.

  46. Anita……I discovered ur site from my friend’s blog…..Great post dear…Very interesting read….will take time to read all ur older posts :-)

    A warm welcome to you here. Sirisha. Thanks for coming!

  47. Anita ji,
    After long time i heard about Bangalore food.. Its been 3yrs that i left Bangalore and still now the thought of blore food woos me… I stay in Netherlands and this is first time am going thru ur blog… recipes r just yummy!!! and am in hurry to try a lot frm ur recipes…thanks for posting such luvly recipes….nxt time if u go Blore, i would suggest u to MTR(bet u need heavy appetite)and am sure u would say that would b the best food outlet…
    thanks a lot for sooo many recipes …

  48. [...] my trip to Bangalore-Belgaum, I continued to discover Indian cuisines further. Belgaum was as enchanting as North Karnataka food [...]

  49. hey if ur looking for north karnataka food theres a place near navrang theatre .its near the shani temple .if ur travelling to majestic thru navrang cirlce u can probably see it while standing in the signal . i really love the tatse of “phuddu” and benne dosa there and also the ” badnekayi enagayi palya” is awesome there . tell me what u think abt that restaurant , these are just my views

  50. its called “uttara dhruva”

    Thanks for the recommendation. I’ll remember to check it next time I visit!

  51. Hello,
    I’m a first time visitor. I found your site through ‘one hot stove’ blog. You have given a very picturesque description of your travel. I’m from Belgaum and your post took me to the streets of my home town. We have a variety of vegetables available fresh in Belgaum.
    Chilled Kharvas tastes very good. The Kale Vatane you were talking about taste even better fresh (I mean before drying).
    It is an amazing sight to watch Maande (or Maandge) being made. It is sad that you missed it. Next time do not forget to taste Kunda.
    I think I’ll be a regular visitor for this site.
    Good Job!!!

    Welcome to AMTP, Teju! Thanks for reading!
    I wonder when the fresh kale watane season is – i would love to try them! Kunda was on my list, but there were only so many meals I could manage! :D I will be sure to try it on my next visit (which I hope is sooner rather than later).

  52. Hi,
    The season for vatane is Dec-Feb. They look like mattar but are smaller in size and slightly sweet in taste. There is a local dish of mutton kheema made with tender fresh vatane, which tastes amazing.
    These days Kunda is available in tin packs (which stays fresh for at least two weeks) so you can carry it and not compromise on eating all the meals.

  53. Hi! I chanced upon yuor blog while surfing around and I think your description of the food you had is brilliant!I will check out your other entries. :)

  54. [...] in Udupi at least.  Recall the amazing variety I had sampled in under three days during my last visit?  But anywhere you go you are sure to get a mean idli-sambar or masala dosa, and filter kapi to [...]

  55. Ah wonderful! The write up, the food, the details. Having come to Pune recently, I am always looking for local details, your this blog provides a lot. So many new information, even being a foodie Bengali and ‘Jagruk’ Indian and have travelled a lot inside India did not know these details before!

  56. Can you share the recipe of MAANDGE (Belgaum local sweet) with me please?

    Sorry, Shilpa, that is something that is best bought! I don’t know anyone who makes it so I have no recipe to share.

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